2010-01-23
Leader: Andrzej Pronobis
Second: Babak Rasolzadeh
Foto: Andrzej Pronobis & Babak Rasolzadeh
After exploring several well known ice climbing destinations within 1 hour drive from Stockholm, we were eager to try something more fun and challenging this winter. Looking for an interesting ice climbing project, we spotted Njupeskär. It fascinated us immediately. The highest Swedish waterfall that freezes for the winter, but never completely, offering 125m of steep ice with sections of difficult, technical climbing. Located in Dalarna, not far from the Norwegian border, Njupeskär resides in the beautiful Fulufjället National Park, a popular busy tourist attraction in the summer, but quiet and calm in the winter. It didn’t take us long before we decided to make an attempt on Njupeskär this winter. So by a quirk of fate, we ended up in Dalarna.
Foto: Andrzej Pronobis & Babak Rasolzadeh
As part of our preparations for Vasaloppet, we planned cross-country skiing somewhere in the northern part of Sweden. It turned out that one of the members of FriskaForskare, Oscar, owns a nice house in Sälen, a perfect place to train for everyone thinking about Vasaloppet. Since Sälen is just 1.5 hours drive from Njupeskär, we saw this as the perfect occasion to fulfil our climbing destiny for this winter.
The next morning after arriving to Sälen, we woke up early at 5:00am. Having had not more than 3 hours of sleep, we struggled to focus and gather the ever so important gear, ate a quick breakfast and headed for Njupeskär. After 2 hours of driving, we finally arrived at the parking lot, happy, full of energy and excited.
Frisky start at the parking lot, Njupeskär. Foto: Andrzej Pronobis & Babak Rasolzadeh
It was still dark but the first strains of daylight had started to penetrate the cold Swedish winter night. It takes about 20 minutes walk from the asphalted road to reach the waterfall. A beautiful path leading through a forest, very calm at that time, with all the trees covered with sparkling snow and icicle. Just before the path turns and starts heading directly towards the waterfall, there is a spot that offers a great, clear view on the whole icefall. We stopped there briefly contemplating the view, being eager to start the climb, but also feeling respect for the
tremendous amounts of vertical ice in the distance. After a brief photo session, we headed towards the fall.
The Njupeskär ice-waterfall from afar. Foto: Andrzej Pronobis & Babak Rasolzadeh
The path continues on a wooden bridge and ends on a wooden platform being a viewpoint for the tourist visiting the place during summer. After digging out of the snow a large piece of wood that most likely was a bench, we started unpacking, preparing our gear and eating our last meal on flat ground for the next few hours. Ready and full of energy, we started approaching the ice. It is a well known phenomenon, but nevertheless surprising every time you experience it, that without any point of reference, human brain cannot give an accurate estimate of the scale of the object visible in the distance. Here, we experienced that phenomenon again. While standing at the wooden platform, we could not see the whole majesty of the icefall, certainly smaller than what we could imagine being 125m tall. After all, 125 makes a 40 storey skyscraper! Together with the scale of the fall, the distance to the ice seems much shorter. We realized that when our approach required much more steps than we expected.
Approaching the waterfall and getting geared-up for the toughest ice-climb of our lives.
Foto: Andrzej Pronobis & Babak Rasolzadeh
We immediately started climbing when we reached the ice. There was no time to loose. The first belaying station was comfortable, hidden behind a large 3×3m fragment of ice. But wait, where did that piece of ice come from? We looked up and unmistakably saw a large overhung part that was the only remnant of a huge ice pillar that fell into pieces. A thin layer of ice, detached from the main wall was hanging from that roof and connecting it to the ground. We decided not to touch this formation (despite that it offered an easy and not-so-steep ascend) and take a much more difficult, but in our opinion safer, route leading first under the roof with hanging icicles and then through sections of vertical and a little overhung ice to the left of the roof.
The safer, but technically more difficult climb to the left of the ”roof”.
Foto: Andrzej Pronobis & Babak Rasolzadeh
The ice in that part was mostly very dry, hard and crusty, formed of many densely-grown icicles rather than solid ice. This made it difficult to mount reliable protection with the ice-screws. At the same time, since the waterfall does not freeze completely, a long screw could reach spaces filled with water. Having only 8 ice screws in total, we had to build protection using the Abalakov threads in order to finish a complete 50m pitch. The last part of the pitch was easier, more solid, but required careful moves to avoid the big overhung roof above which we built the next belaying station.
The second belay-station, Abalakov thread to the right in the left image.
Foto: Andrzej Pronobis & Babak Rasolzadeh
The second part of the route offered, easier and much more relaxing climbing. It felt like a reward for the difficulties of the first pitch. Beautiful solid ice, steep enough to be interesting, but not too tiring. The only tricky part led through a segment of very thin ice. We could see large amounts of water flowing just beneath. It was there, where we experienced something amazing. It was calm and silent. We tried to place an ice screw when suddenly the silence was broken by the sound of rushing waterfall. All this just through the tiny hole made with the ice screw. A few more trials with my axe revealed a wall of rapidly rushing water; the waterfall was fully exposed through this 50×50 cm ”window” that we had accidentally created! Fortunately, it was possible to bypass that section through a nice, solid ice leading to a very comfortable belay station to the left of it.
The second (easy) pitch and next picture, the corresponding third belay-station.
Foto: Andrzej Pronobis & Babak Rasolzadeh
Foto: Andrzej Pronobis & Babak Rasolzadeh
The last part of the ice fall is broken into 2 easy steps separated by flat surfaces covered with large amounts of snow. It didn’t take us long to reach the top of the icefall. It was getting dark. We were indeed tired, wet and painfully frozen, but when we reached the top we were happier than we have been in a long time, at least in climbing contexts. Satisfied with an indescribable sense of joy that we managed to complete our project, we thought, it should be a breeze to walk down the 125m using a trail that is supposed to be there.
Finally up there! Go KTH and FriskaForskare. Foto: Andrzej Pronobis & Babak Rasolzadeh
Needless to say the trail wasn’t obvious to find under the ½ m snow that was covering everything. This final task turned out not to be that easy after all. It took us more than one hour to reach the trail that brought us to the icefall in the morning. Due to large amounts of snow and darkness, it was impossible to follow the trail and we slowly made our way through the slope in very deep snow, often falling under the snow up to our chests. (Note that it is never recommended to take the slope of the canyon as the risk of avalanche is high). Walking towards the car, we felt exhausted, but filled with extreme happiness. We spent the rest of the day laughing and recalling the most exciting moments.
This was more than just a very exciting and challenging ice-climb, it was truly a memory for a lifetime!
The entire climb and the three pitches it consisted of!
Foto: Andrzej Pronobis & Babak Rasolzadeh
Text & Pictures: Andrzej Pronobis, Babak Rasolzadeh
Ett stort tack till Andrzej och Babak som delar med sig av sitt äventyr, till glädje och nytta för andra!
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